Last time in the Pilbara

We went back into Karijini on Wednesday and went on a 4WD tour with a guide called Geoff, who took us into the gorges that our vehicle couldn't handle. On the way in there we came across the grader ... that bit of road was so much better! However it was nice for someone else to be doing the driving for a change.

Aboriginal legend has it that the gorges of Karijini National Park were formed by giant serpents who snaked through the rocks and now reside in the park’s glistening waters.

Basically, in terms of geology, this whole area is an ancient sea bed. Over millions of years, layers of silica and silica and iron oxide built up, squeezing out the water to become tough, well-bedded rock. Colliding continental plates caused these rocks to buckle and develop vertical cracks before being lifted up to become dry land. Erosion over millions of years has caused the landscape to become how we see it today.

What is so amazing with these gorges is not just witnessing the absolute power and strength of the earth in lifting and warping the rocks on the sides - it's the whole thing - including the depth that some of the rocks have been lifted and the resulting depth of these gorges. A lot of them you can't get into without a guide, proper abseiling/climbing equipment and a lot of experience!

We went first to Knox Gorge. This was pretty mind-blowing, but soon it was time to head off and so off we went to have a look at Joffre Gorge, a spectacular gorge which has been cut down into by water and has a waterfall at one end, crystal clear water at the bottom. We then went to Oxer lookout, which is where Red, Hammersley, Joffre and Knox Gorges all meet. WOW! This was absolutely fantastic. The colours of the iron-rich rocks are amazing.
After lunch we headed off for a bit of adventure - to go into Weano Gorge and go down it to the handrail pool. This necessitated us walking around narrow rock ledges in waist high water , clinging onto rock handholds, to get to other parts of the gorge that were not otherwise accessible. We then had to carefully clmb down through a narrowish gap across very slippery rocks to get to a pool almost entirely enclosed by 80m high walls of sheer red rock. Next step, which Michael did but I was too lazy to do, was to go through a narrow opening, and descend into the pool using a handrail (duh!). Then back and up and out of the gorge, Fantastic experience.

Next morning, we set off very early heading for Hamersley Gorge. This one is on the far north of Karijini and is quite different to the others. The rocks are pushed and twisted in strata of colour and texture - stunning.

After this it's back to reality - 55km of unsealed road, back through Auski roadhouse and 40 litres of petrol at $1.59 a litre then off on the road to Port Hedland. That was a long and boring drive and unfortunately a foretaste of things to come!!

Port Hedland - a BHP town, covered in a layer of red dust, a typical mining town, with few sights and experiences really. We had a nice meal at one of the hotels, watched the giant ships come into port and get filled with iron ore to be shipped off to China, and then sold back to us in the form of cars, and then headed out of town on the VERY long trip to Broome, which we broke over two days. We got to the 80 mile beach turn off after about 4 hours of solid driving, but then the last 9km was on a very rough unmade road. Saw a big goanna run across the road in front of the car as we turned in - just caught him on camera!

80 mile beach is a little oasis - spectacular long white beach, stunning clear water - just a pity you can't swim in it as there are nasties there like stingers and stingrays. Ahh well. We got up at 5.30 the next morning to see the sunrise and seee what offerings the tide had brought us in terms of shells, but not much interesting - lots of volume though!

After that we were off to Broome. The landscape deteriorated at this point - nothing but low scrubby plants from horizon to horizon. For 450 km. Yikes. Never mind - we made it, hot and dusty but we're here in Broome, recharging our batteries for the next adventure into the Kimberley!!!