We managed to get onto a trip to Mostar today - despite being cancelled at 9pm the night before by a travel agent and having to call someone else at about 10... :) Thank you Dubrovnik Travel!
We stopped at a couple of places along the way to Mostar from Dubrovnik. The most interesting was called Pocitelj. It's in the Neretva river valley about 25km from Mostar. It existed in 1444 as a fortress supported by Hungary; Turks took it over in 1471 and it became an important part of the Ottoman Empire. A 17th century enclosing wall still exists. In its heyday, there was in the town an elementary school (mekteb), a secondary theological school (medresa) and also public baths (hammam) and an inn for travelers (han). The town was constructed right into a rocky mountainside overlooking a bend in the Neretva river. Its characteristic buildings are Ottoman style, with stone house, stone pathways and stone roofs. Lots of women and children selling dried and fresh fruit in these cute little papers twists.
Next we drove through the Neretva Valley, sometimes referred to as the "california of Herzegovina". The Neretva Valley is an area where tribes, nations and their armies have fought for dominance since the beginning of time. The trade routes have gone through Neretva Valley since prehistoric time. Those who controlled the valley and its many robbers and pirates could control the trade for all of present day Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. The whole area is covered in little rivers all providing water for the thousands of tangerine trees, other fruit and vegatables, and increasingly grapes.
Into Mostar, where the devastation from the conflict in 1993 is evident everywhere. The original town is Ottoman, developed in the 15th and 16th century then again by the Austro-Hungarians in the 19th century. In the 1990s, most of the old town and the bridge were destroyed by shelling, and the scars can be seen in the empty buildings and the cemetery in which most of the deaths are 1993. It's so far away from Australia - we saw all of this on our tv screens but it's meaningless because we have no similar experiences. Anyway - the bridge was rebuilt using the same stone and the same methods as the original, and when the stones age will probably look like the Old Bridge - at the moment it's still pretty shiny!
The water in the river Neretva is greener than anything I've seen, apparently caused by a high concentration of limestone and very clear water. Sounds like it could be true - it is a very startling green!
We wandered through the Turkish old town, but after the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul most of the offerings looked over priced and a bit tacky. So off back 'home' to Dubrovnick - tomorrow we are off to Korcula - birthplace of Marco Polo!
Saturday, September 29, 2007
Friday, September 28, 2007
Dubrovnik, Croatia
Well we've been here for nearly a week now and I haven't done anything much other than put lots of photos onto the Picasa Web album. So here we go - a description of the old town. I'll attach labels to the photos rather than insert pictures into this post - much easier!
The most recognizable feature of the historic city of Dubrovnik are its intact city walls, which run uninterrupted for 1940 meters encircling the city. This complex structure, one of the most beautiful and strongest for system in the Mediterranean, consists of a series of forts, bastions, casemates, towers and detached forts.
The history of the fortifications goes back to the early Middle Ages. The earliest urban settlement upon the islet of Laus was protected with walls, and the fact that the city was able to resist the Saracens who besieged the city for 15months in the 9th century means that it was fortified well. The city first spread towards the uninhabited eastern part of the islet. The eastern section was included within the defence walls in the 9th and 10th century. When the sea channel separating the city from mainland was filled with earth in 11th century, the city merged with the settlement on land and soon a single wall was built around the area of the present-day city core. The whole city was enclosed in the 13th century, except for the Dominican monastery, which came under their protection not before the 14th century. The average thickness of the wall was 1.5 metres, and it was built of stone and lime. To increase the strength of the walls and ensure better defence, 15 square forts were built in the 14th century.
Extensive work was done on the walls towards the close of the 14th century, at the time of the final liberation from the Venetian supremacy. The design of the walls derives from 14th century, while the definite shape was fixed in the period referred to as the Golden Age of Dubrovnik, from the fall of Constantinople in 1453 until the devastating earthquake of 1667. The main wall on the landside is 4 to 6 metres thick, but narrower on the side facing the sea-1.5 to 3 metres thick. Its height reaches 25 meters in some places. An additional scarp wall as defence against artillery fire protects the wall on the landside. The irregular quadrilateral formed by the walls is protected at four prominent points by strong forts. The strong round Tower Minčeta is to the north, the port is protected by the detached Fortress Revelin in the east and by the big complex of the Fortress of Saint John in the southeast. The western entrance to the city protects the strong and beautiful tower Bokar. Powerful detached Fortress Lovrijenac also protects the western end of the city from danger from the sea and land. In additional to these strong and most prominent fortifications, the city walls are protected additionally by 2 round towers, 12 quadrilateral forts, 5 bastions and 2 corner towers, while the scarp wall is flanked by one large and 9 small semicircular bastions.
We enter through the Pile Gate, which is where the bus drops us off. Outside the gate is a fantastic view of the walls and one of the forts (Bokar), up on a rock outside the city walls. This fort's walls are much thinner on the side afcing the city so that if it was captured by the enemy the town could shell it easily! How's that for forward planning! The drawbridge was raised every night. There are two massive doors through the walls, an exterior door in a Renaissance style and a Gothic interior door topped by the statue of St Blaise, Dubrovnik's patron saint.
Straight ahead is the town's main street, Placa (pronounced "platsa") or Stradun, Dubrovnik's most illustrious feature, with the clock tower at the end.
Along the wide gleaming (limestone) street lined with shops and cafes, all Dubrovnik's processions take place. In front of the Pile Gate entrance is the circular Onofrio Fountain (named after its Neapolitan builder) built in the 15th century and with 16 carved masks, all with water spouts. Unlike the rest of Dalmatia, Dubrovnik citizens were not relegated to capturing rainwater; the fountain was connected by aqueduct with a spring 12km from town.
Opposite is the Franciscan Monastery with the restored sculpture of the Pieta over the entrance door. Inside is the Pharmacy dating from the 14th century and a gorgeous cloister also from the 14th century.
Next to the monastery is the 16th-century St Saviour Church, one of the few Renaissance structures to survive the earthquake of 1667.There are often concerts and exhibitions here.
Orlando's Column on the eastern end of Stradun was carved in 1417 and has been a popular meeting place for almost six centuries!
The Sponza Palace, Dubrovnik's Renaissance highlight is on one side f the square, and houses the State Archives.
Nearby is the ornate St Blaise's church, at the end of Stradun, dedicated to Dubrovnik's patron saint. Inside the lavish 18th-century church is a charming 15th-century statue of St Blaise who holds a scale model of Dubrovnik in his hand.
The Rector's Palace was built in the late 15th century for Dubrovnik's ruler, the elected Rector, who held office for one month on a revolving basis and was not allowed to leave the building during his term.
Across the square is Dubrovnik's baroque Cathedral. Built in the 18th century after an earthquake destroyed the original,the cathedral is still being explored after excavations revealed traces dating back to the 7th century.
The Ploce Gate also exits the city, and near here is the Dominican Monastery with a sober exterior that blends into Dubrovnik's walls. The art collection here centers on Dubrovnik's finest painters, mostly from the 15th and 16th centuries. There's also a lovely cloister dedicated to St Sebastian.
The view from Dubrovnik's walls is a fantastic way to get a feeling for the city. The walls are around 2km long, 25m high and up to 3m thick. As you look down at the town, you can see a patchwork of colours formed by the red-roofs. The shelling of 1991 left gaping holes Dubrovnik's distinctive terra cotta roofs. Some were repaired with tiles from a factory in Slovenia, some came from Agen, France but most were produced in northern Croatia.
The most recognizable feature of the historic city of Dubrovnik are its intact city walls, which run uninterrupted for 1940 meters encircling the city. This complex structure, one of the most beautiful and strongest for system in the Mediterranean, consists of a series of forts, bastions, casemates, towers and detached forts.
The history of the fortifications goes back to the early Middle Ages. The earliest urban settlement upon the islet of Laus was protected with walls, and the fact that the city was able to resist the Saracens who besieged the city for 15months in the 9th century means that it was fortified well. The city first spread towards the uninhabited eastern part of the islet. The eastern section was included within the defence walls in the 9th and 10th century. When the sea channel separating the city from mainland was filled with earth in 11th century, the city merged with the settlement on land and soon a single wall was built around the area of the present-day city core. The whole city was enclosed in the 13th century, except for the Dominican monastery, which came under their protection not before the 14th century. The average thickness of the wall was 1.5 metres, and it was built of stone and lime. To increase the strength of the walls and ensure better defence, 15 square forts were built in the 14th century.
Extensive work was done on the walls towards the close of the 14th century, at the time of the final liberation from the Venetian supremacy. The design of the walls derives from 14th century, while the definite shape was fixed in the period referred to as the Golden Age of Dubrovnik, from the fall of Constantinople in 1453 until the devastating earthquake of 1667. The main wall on the landside is 4 to 6 metres thick, but narrower on the side facing the sea-1.5 to 3 metres thick. Its height reaches 25 meters in some places. An additional scarp wall as defence against artillery fire protects the wall on the landside. The irregular quadrilateral formed by the walls is protected at four prominent points by strong forts. The strong round Tower Minčeta is to the north, the port is protected by the detached Fortress Revelin in the east and by the big complex of the Fortress of Saint John in the southeast. The western entrance to the city protects the strong and beautiful tower Bokar. Powerful detached Fortress Lovrijenac also protects the western end of the city from danger from the sea and land. In additional to these strong and most prominent fortifications, the city walls are protected additionally by 2 round towers, 12 quadrilateral forts, 5 bastions and 2 corner towers, while the scarp wall is flanked by one large and 9 small semicircular bastions.
We enter through the Pile Gate, which is where the bus drops us off. Outside the gate is a fantastic view of the walls and one of the forts (Bokar), up on a rock outside the city walls. This fort's walls are much thinner on the side afcing the city so that if it was captured by the enemy the town could shell it easily! How's that for forward planning! The drawbridge was raised every night. There are two massive doors through the walls, an exterior door in a Renaissance style and a Gothic interior door topped by the statue of St Blaise, Dubrovnik's patron saint.
Straight ahead is the town's main street, Placa (pronounced "platsa") or Stradun, Dubrovnik's most illustrious feature, with the clock tower at the end.
Along the wide gleaming (limestone) street lined with shops and cafes, all Dubrovnik's processions take place. In front of the Pile Gate entrance is the circular Onofrio Fountain (named after its Neapolitan builder) built in the 15th century and with 16 carved masks, all with water spouts. Unlike the rest of Dalmatia, Dubrovnik citizens were not relegated to capturing rainwater; the fountain was connected by aqueduct with a spring 12km from town.
Opposite is the Franciscan Monastery with the restored sculpture of the Pieta over the entrance door. Inside is the Pharmacy dating from the 14th century and a gorgeous cloister also from the 14th century.
Next to the monastery is the 16th-century St Saviour Church, one of the few Renaissance structures to survive the earthquake of 1667.There are often concerts and exhibitions here.
Orlando's Column on the eastern end of Stradun was carved in 1417 and has been a popular meeting place for almost six centuries!
The Sponza Palace, Dubrovnik's Renaissance highlight is on one side f the square, and houses the State Archives.
Nearby is the ornate St Blaise's church, at the end of Stradun, dedicated to Dubrovnik's patron saint. Inside the lavish 18th-century church is a charming 15th-century statue of St Blaise who holds a scale model of Dubrovnik in his hand.
The Rector's Palace was built in the late 15th century for Dubrovnik's ruler, the elected Rector, who held office for one month on a revolving basis and was not allowed to leave the building during his term.
Across the square is Dubrovnik's baroque Cathedral. Built in the 18th century after an earthquake destroyed the original,the cathedral is still being explored after excavations revealed traces dating back to the 7th century.
The Ploce Gate also exits the city, and near here is the Dominican Monastery with a sober exterior that blends into Dubrovnik's walls. The art collection here centers on Dubrovnik's finest painters, mostly from the 15th and 16th centuries. There's also a lovely cloister dedicated to St Sebastian.
The view from Dubrovnik's walls is a fantastic way to get a feeling for the city. The walls are around 2km long, 25m high and up to 3m thick. As you look down at the town, you can see a patchwork of colours formed by the red-roofs. The shelling of 1991 left gaping holes Dubrovnik's distinctive terra cotta roofs. Some were repaired with tiles from a factory in Slovenia, some came from Agen, France but most were produced in northern Croatia.
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