Petra - all I imagined and more!

Bright and early we were up and ready for our guide, Ali, who was supposed to be the best guide in Petra. Also a chainsmoker as we were to find out - he smoked constantly while we were in Petra. We wanted to go as early as possible as we knew it was going to get hot, so we set off at 7am, when the park opened. Heading past a cacophony of men wanting to provide us with a carriage ride or a horse ride, or a donkey ride, we said no to all and hoofed it down ourselves. Walking through the canyons on the way down was awesome, they are so steep, the colours superb. Ali pointed out several walls built along the way to stem the flash flooding that can occur in winter time - if the place flooded you would have nowhere to go and be drowned. That last happened in the late 60's.  It's also interesting to think about Petra, abandoned for all those centuries, left to the ravages of sand and water - a lot of the damage done to it is man made, but there is also a lot of water damage caused by flooding waters.  As we walked, people clattered through the canyons in horse and cart - missing all the interesting bits on the way down!

Finally after about half an hour we turned around a bend and saw the Treasury through the gap in the rocks. Stopping to take some photos, I had my Indiana Jones moment, with the theme running through my head! Then through the gap in the rocks and there it was, the Petra Treasury.

Petra is a vast, unique city, carved into the sheer rock face by the Nabataeans, an industrious Arab people who settled here more than 2000 years ago, turning it into an important junction for the silk, spice and other trade routes that linked China, India and southern Arabia with Egypt, Syria, Greece and Rome. The Treasury, Al-Khazneh soars 45m high above the sandy floor, carved into the rock face so long ago. Unfortunately, unlike in the movies, there is nothing inside - you can't go in.  We sat and looked - just absorbing the beauty of the place, thinking about it's history.

... and then Ali moved us on to the REST of the site. Ye Gods I never thought about there being anything much other than the Treasury, but how wrong I was!  There's a huge site there with a great many other buildings, although none as spectacular as this one.  
Ali soon decided that walking along the main road through the sand wasn't enough of a challenge for us, so we went off overland - along a part that did say 'Do not climb here". Apparently that was just for newbs, not for us... Anyway whoever it was for, it was damn hard work.  We climbed up and saw things from a different angle - the theatre, some rock caves, some more attempts they'd made of carving something like the Treasury but facing north so not protected from the wind and sand storms. An old Bedouin who just happened to be there (OK I got a nice photo with him in it...) tried to sell us some ancient coins, which Ali, in his expertise, assured us were real... of course they would be cheap for us and why he would sell to us rather than a museum is beyond anyone's guess.... One thing we did get to see was the spectacular caves - see below.

Ali left us right at the end of the Petra site - barring the 800 step climb to the Monastery, which he did not recommend, and given the heat and general tiredness, we gave in and decided not to climb. Apparently you can hire a donkey to take you up but I couldn't do that to a poor donkey!! they are not particularly well treated here, it's common to see the boys whacking them with electrical wire. We went through the archeological museum (5 minutes - it was cool - temperature wise) then we set off back through the Roman ruins to our first drink stop!  There we came across Sheik Abdullah Brogden... and took him with us.. :)

Many hours later (at least it felt like it) we made it back to the Treasury then staggered back towards the hotel. The last kilometre I confess - it was too hot, too dusty, too much uphill and I was totally knackered, so we paid 5JD for a horse and cart back up to the entrance. Then back to the hotel, pool and afternoon nap!!  A splendid day!

Internet woes

How strange is it that we can get easy, fast Internet at almost any cafe or restaurant we stop at in Turkey, but rubbish at all of the hotels?

These are our dinner companions!

Jordan continues after a short intermission

I am a vry slack blogger. I think it's because I don't think anyone bothers to read this - they might look at photos but not read this. Surprise me... if you read this leave a comment  ;)

Well we're a couple of weeks in now I believe.... what the hell's been going on?

Last post we had been to Jerash.  Freaking hot, lots of Roman ruins, good stuff.

Had fresh felafel and hot bread (Turkish bread...?) in the car while we headed off to the next ruins... which were at Ajloun, which is a 12th century Islamic castle built by Saladdin. Then off for a few hours drive to Umm Qais, which is another Roman city - actually one of the famous Decapolis - a union of 10 cities founded by Alexander the Great. This took us up near the Syrian border, so we went through a number of police checks on the way.  We got there to see another lot of colonnaded streets, and actually a much bigger site than we had thought it would be, but probably the most outstanding thing about it was the view - across the Sea of Galilee, the North Jordan Valley and the Golan Heights. Fabulous scenery.

Back to Amman and a lazy dinner at the hotel.

Next day, up at sparrow's again and off to see around Amman first.  We went to the Citadel, which had the obligatory Roman ruins through to more recent Islamic period, such as the Umayyad Palace.  A little drive through the 'souqs' which in this case were pretty much just shops, to the Roman Theatre, which was pretty cool (not literally, it was already 38 degrees) and well preserved.  Off then to see the Desert Castles in Eastern Jordan. the first one we went to, Qasr Kharanah, was pretty much in ruins, it had been used as a caravanserai in later times.  Still we could climb up to the second floor and get an idea of what it must have been like.

The second 'Castle' was Amra Castle, which although it looked pretty small, was actually lovely. The dome used to represent all the zodiac signs - there are bits of it left, and bits of other frescoes being preserved on the walls.  We chatted to a bloke fixing the remaining mosaics on the floor, of course he had relatives in Australia... 

So off we went to the last castle for the day, which was a black basalt fort at Azraq. In two days we had been near so many borders- Palestine, Israel, Syria, Saudi Arabia and Iraq.

Day 3 saw us up early and out of the hotel at 7am.  We drove to the Dead Sea - the lowest point on earth, which is getting lower every year as they take salt out of it. Apparently there are plans to put water in there from the Red Sea, which will change things substantially. We got to the Dead Sea at about 9am and set off down to the water's edge.   It was already hot, and I entertained a hope that the water would be cool.  HAH! I had no idea of what swimming in the Dead Sea would be like, despite having read about it. To start off with, it IS incredibly salty! so salty that it stings your eyes and leaves a great taste in your mouth.Not having been warned, we hadn't taken any fresh water down with us, so basically just sucked it up and waited until it stopped stinging.  The buoyancy is just amazing. You really have to work hard to do anything other than bob up and down like a cork!!  We followed the lead of some more experienced swimmers and found the mud - the Dead Sea mud that is supposed to be so good for you - and liberally smeared it wherever we could - although Michael resisted putting it down the front of his bathers like all the other men were doing! Oh and the water was not cool - more like a tepid bath, and so not refreshing at all. After the mud had set a bit we got out and showered it all off, then trudged back up the hill to the airconditioned hotel and a couple of cold drinks.

Heading off, we drove to a town called Madaba, where we visited a church with a partially intact 6th century mosaic map of  Palestine. pretty awesome.  Then after a short break for lunch, where I discovered I really like the local drink of fresh lemon juice and mint, to Mt Nebo. Historically, this is where Moses gazed over the Promised Land before his death, and supposedly the site of his burial. Who knows. Nice site though.

Then onwards towards Petra, riding along the King's Way and stopping for a couple of fabulous views along the way. Late afternoon brought us into Petra, all ready for the next exciting day!

Jordan - couple of days in

We're sitting in the sportsman's bar of the hotel in Amman, waiting for a late lunch. I'm happy because the internet access is good, unlike in our room, and Michael's happy because Liverpool's playing in the first game of the season and it's live on the tv here.  The little things in life :)

We flew into Jordan on Thursday afternoon. Michael had a sliver of a view out the window, and all that could be seen was dust and sand... but fortunately there was a terminal there and we could get off. I have never travelled with so many kids - there were 47 children and 22 babies on the flight from Dubai! No school trips, just kids travelling with their parents. Amazing.  No screams on take off or landing, but plenty of noise otherwise, and boy the flight crew had their work cut out for them!  Once off, we found our way to Immigration, got out some Jordanian Dinar to pay for our visas, then went to what looked like the shortest queue for a visa. Of course Murphy's Law struck, and we noticed after a short time that the people in front of us were holding 10 passports. So every one of those had to be processed, letters checked, and only then could they progress to have a retinal scan done and go through passport control. So we waited about 20 minutes until our turn, and then wouldn't you know it, stamp stamp, scan scan, and we're in.  Down the escalator and then a couple of minutes later there were our bags.

Through customs and out, found our tour guide Ahmed, and off we went.  First room had two double beds so we asked for a change, got a room identical to the first but higher up and with one queen sized bed. Much better :)

Friday we were up early and out of the hotel by 8am.  First stop was Jerash, which is famous for an unbroken chain of human occupation dating back more than 6,500 years.  Jerash lies on a plain surrounded by hilly wooded areas and fertile basins. Conquered by General Pompey in 63 BC, it came under Roman rule and was one of the ten great Roman cities of the Decapolis League. The city's golden age came under Roman rule, during which time it was known as Gerasa, and the site is now generally acknowledged to be one of the best-preserved Roman provincial towns in the world. Hidden for centuries in sand before being excavated and restored over the past 70 years, it's now a magnificent site. It was also bloody hot!  One of the most surprising finds was in the amphitheatre, where we came across a piper ... yes, bagpipes!

Off we go!

Just enjoyed a delightful lunch in the qantas lounge at Tullamarine, couple of glasses of Bolly and we're just about ready to go. Oh the desserts here are to die for! Mine was a pav with strawberries and rhubarb and a huge pile of Persian floss, michael's a lemon Madeleine with creme brûlée ... Nom nom nom

Preparations

I started the day with a list of about 30 things to do before leaving work today - knowing that I was also going to the inaugural ACER Alumni lunch in the city which would chop about 3 hours out of the day. Happy to report that completed all but one of the tasks I had set myself, as well as a few others that popped up along the way. Oh and haven't changed my voicemail message yet :(

The house looks like a bomb's hit it, but once we start actually packing, it will all fall into place. I'm trying something new this trip and trying to travel light. It's always tempting not to when you know you have 96kg luggage allowance, and as Michael is travelling with me, he does too!  But I keep thinking about trying to sling a 32kg bag on and off a bus and I figure that I will try and start light.

Plans - Monday fly to Dubai - three nights at the Palace Hotel in Dubai, then off to Jordan.

After baking in Dubai, we head off to Amman, Jordan. We have a total of 6 days in Jordan, travelling through the north, then down to Petra and the Dead Sea. Petra's been on my bucket list since I saw Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade!

Next fly through Istanbul to Cappadocia, then three days one balloon flight later fly through to Antalya and then head off across the south coast of Turkey, finishing up in Gallipoli and then to Istanbul. We're staying there for a week at a rather gorgeous hotel: Ishak Pasa Konagi in Sultanahmet, right next to (actually joined to) Topkapi Palace.  And I have to go to the conference - chairing one session, discussant on a couple and my own presentation... :)  should be fun!

Daisy's bath

Daisy

Yep, took her to a new groomer today and she did a spectacular job. From a smelly dirty matted dog, I got this beautiful one!  Good trade I reckon.

She's getting a little uncomfortable. Jess has been gone for a week and my suitcase is out. She's really going to know when Michael's also comes out...

Tomorrow I head in for a couple of nights at the Hilton South Wharf, chairing the ACER conference. One of the little perks of being the Director of Research that I do like! So it will just be Michael here with Daisy and Neo.  And then packing for our trip. Can't wait until we go, but I am going to miss this little face :)

Waiting in Dubai

Four hours layover in Dubai. Whisked through security when we got off the plane by some quite charming staff - pleasant surprise!  Didn't even have to take out laptop or ipad - yay!

Strolled down through the miles of shiny duty free and lift up to the Emirates First Lounge - one of the perks of Platinum status!  Down to the end of the lounge to the dining room, where we seem to be the only customers. Had a lovely breakfast (must remember to get Jess to cut the crusts off my toast from  now on!) and then basically we've just crashed here in the lounge.

Emirates have been delightfully helpful in trying to organise the limo transfer in Paris that Qantas seemed unable to do. Cross fingers and hope that the car will be there when we get into Charles De Gaulle.

Looking forward to being back in Paris - last time it was so cold, weather looks perfect for Sunday and our trip out to Giverny to Moet's Garden... cannot wait! Tossed up whether to go to Versailles in the morning but I think we might just wander from our hotel through to the Eiffel Tower.

en route to Paris

sitting here in the Emirates lounge in Singapore, waiting for the flight to Dubai which leaves at 0140. Have a nice glass of Moet to dull the pain (LOL) but bloody tired and just want to go.

It's been so hot here in Singapore, alternating with the frigid airconditioning of the lecture rooms at the University. Outside, drenched with sweat, then inside to have it evaporate and leave you freezing. Rinse and repeat 6 times a day until you collapse in the hotel room.  The haze from the fires in Indonesia has largely abated this week, and it's just been the usual haze from other things, probably mainly humidity.  We went to the new Gardens by the bay, which were spectacular. Loved the design, the supertrees, just the fact that everything is environmentally sustainable. Beautiful architecture.

The conference has been good, catching up with old buddies that I see at various events and meetings during the year, others whose paths I only cross every few years.

Now back at Changi, waiting for the A330 to dubai then the A380 to Paris. We (Lisa and I) have a couple of days there this time before catching the train to Liege, in Belgium.